PRODUCT TECH SHEETS

• Tamco Cleaners and Solvents
• TAMCO CLEARS
• TAMCO BINDERS
• HP 8000 2K PRIMER
• HP-5310 (DTM) HP-5311 Colormax and 3Plus 1
• Tamco DTA (Direct to Anything) Epoxy Primer
• Tamco OEM, Fleet and Marine Products

Why Choose Tamco???

There are many paint companies that you can choose from, so the question arises, "why should I choose to buy from Tamco?"   In these hard economic times, wasting money is the quickest way for a business to go broke and shut down. So whether you are a body shop, or just a do-it-yourselfer, buying the right quality products at the right price is more critical today than ever.  Tamco has been in business since 1989. Bob Barney, the co-founder, has been in the paint business for over 30 years as a jobber, technical salesperson and paint manufacturer.  Tamco is a family business, where everyone you talk to in the company is either family or very close to family.  We make the best products, but we are small enough to also treat our customers as partners. Go to EBAY and do a search for Tamco Paint Products. Check out our feedback!  We are one of the largest sellers on EBAY, as well as having nationwide distributors that sell our products.  We are also a very large "toll" manufacturer. This means we "private label" products for some of the best names in the business!  You have probably used some of our products and don't know it.


Buying directly from the manufacturer or one of our distributors will save you money, BUT NOT cost you quality!  We do not make "cheap" products. All of our products that we make are equal to or superior to the "Big Named Brands."  We do not cut corners. We use only the finest raw materials. We use only certified urethane grade solvents in all or our products INCLUDING OUR REDUCERS!  Many reducers on the market contain high levels of waters and other contaminates that can cause a poor performing paint job.  You can be sure that our products will be the best you can buy, but at a fair price.  


Our Clears use maximum amounts of 2 UV's.  Our clears are the best money can buy. Our HC-7677 "No Wax" clear is the most durable clear on the market!  It will last 15-30 years!  It is chemically resistant beyond what most any other urethane offers. In fact, it passes aircraft "skydrol" testing!


Our staff of experts can answer your questions.  They are certified in most other brands of paint, as well as experienced in every aspect of our business.  Our Tech director Sean Miller, is an expert air brush artist and painter, with many award winning custom paint jobs to his credit.  His wife, Tammy Miller runs daily operations, as well as our all around contact for questions, orders, and pricing.  She was making paint since she was 5!  When you talk to our people, you are talking to the owners.

Tamco, owned by Barney Family Enterprises, Inc has been a trusted brand name since 1989!


Don't let our fair prices fool you. Instead realize that during the past 20 years, you have been taken for a ride by those paint companies that have been marking up their prices 5, 10 and 20 times! Yes, you read that right!  We charge fair prices and stand by what we sell!

QUESTIONS?  CONTACT US CLICK HERE

Steps for A Typical Body Repair and Refinishing

Detergent Scuff:: Clean area to be refinished using a hot, soapy water mixture. Use a gray nylon scuff pad to agitate the surface and remove all water-based contaminants. Thoroughly scuff to remove all surface gloss and produce an evenly dull surface. A liquid scuffing agent may be used along with the gray scuff pad to increase effectiveness and speed the process. Rinse surface clean with water. Dry work area with a clean cloth and compressed air and continue paint process.

Solvent Clean: Thoroughly clean the surface to be refinished with a good quality wax and grease remover to remove all solvent based contaminants. Apply to all areas to be painted, one panel at a time. Wipe off with a second clean, dry cloth before the area is allowed to dry. If drying occurs, repeat application.. 

Sealing (optional): This optional step may be chosen to fill small scratches or increase adhesion of the new paint over the old finish. Mix SR-0421 Primer • Surfacer according to label directions for seal coat. Apply 1-2 medium coats. Allow to flash hand slick between coats. Allow to dry until hand slick (usually about 5-30 minutes depending on temperatures and film thickness).

Grinding: If body filler is to be used, the surface must be ground to clean, bare metal using a rotary grinder and a 36 grit grinding disc. Avoid using the edge of the disk. Expose an area just slightly larger than the body filler will be applied to. Blow off the area that was ground, and surrounding areas, with compressed air.

Rough Featheredging: Sand all broken paint edges using the DA sander and 80 grit sandpaper. Hold the DA flat against the surface and avoid using the edge of the pad. Continue sanding until the broken paint edge becomes a smooth transition between the metal substrate and the old finish.

Apply Body Filler: Mix body filler according to label directions. Immediately apply in thin even coats following the contour of the original panel.

Rough Sand Body Filler: Sand body filler with 80 grit sandpaper and a hard sanding block. This rough sanding is done to “shape” the body filler to match the contour of the surrounding metal. If more filler material is needed, blow off area with compressed air and re-apply body filler. Finish rough sanding with 180 grit sandpaper to remove all 80 grit scratches.

Finish / Featheredging: Inspect body filler for the proper contour, 80 grit scratches, or pinholes. If defects are found, re-apply body filler. Featheredge all broken paint edges or scratches in surrounding paint using 180 grit sandpaper and finish with 320 grit sandpaper on a DA sander. Blow off the repair area, and surrounding areas, with compressed air.

Apply Etching Filler: Mix Etching Filler according to label directions. Apply 2-3 medium wet coats allowing 2-3 minutes flash time between coats. Allow to dry for a minimum of 30 minutes.

Apply Primer Surfacer: Apply SR-0421 Acrylic 2K Primer • Surfacer according to label directions. Apply 2-3 medium coats allowing each to flash to a dull finish. Allow to dry a minimum of 2 hours.

Guide Coating: Guide coating is done to help highlight areas that require additional sanding during the Block Sanding Step . Apply a thin dusting of guide coat over the entire primed area. Allow to dry for a minimum of 10 minutes.

Block Sanding: Block sanding is done to perfectly level the repair area and provide a smooth transition between the repair area and the old finish. Begin by sanding the repair area with 240 grit sandpaper and a hard sanding block. Sand only enough to remove the guide coat. Do not over-sand. Re-sand the area with 320 grit sandpaper, followed with 400 grit sandpaper. If repair area is not to be sealed, final sand with 600 grit sandpaper. Blow off the repair area, and surrounding areas, with compressed air.

Apply Basecoat: This is the actual color coat to match the vehicle’s original finish. Apply 2-3 medium wet coats. Allow to flash handslick between coats. Basecoat will dry to a dull or satin finish.

Apply Clearcoat: The clearcoat is the protective layer that gives the BC/CC system its gloss and durability. Mix according to the selected Schramlack Clearcoat label directions. Apply 2 medium wet coats. Allow each coat to flash until hand slick before next coat. Allow to dry overnight.

Buffing / Polishing (optional): During the application of the topcoat system surface imperfections may occur because of airborne dust or other environmental factors. To remove these minor surface imperfections, allow the clearcoat to dry at least 24 hours. Lightly wet sand with 1200-1500 grit sandpaper. Polish the surface with a good grade buffing compound to remove the scratches from the sandpaper. Finish the process with a machine glaze and a clean pad.

Paint Defect Troubleshooting Page

TROUBLESHOOTING REFINISH PROBLEMS

  CAUSE, REPAIR & PREVENTION

  PROBLEM INDEX

PROBLEM	ALSO KNOWN AS
1. Air Entrapment	Craters
2. Bleeding	Discoloration
3. Blistering	Pimples, Bubbles, Bumps
4. Blushing	Milkiness
5. Chalking	Fading, Oxidation, Weathering
6. Chemical Staining/Etching	Acid Rain, Spotting, Discoloration
7. Chipping	Nicks, Stone Pecks, Chips, Bruises
8. Color Mismatch	Off Color, Off Shade
9. Cracking	Checking, Crazing, Splitting,Alligatoring, Crowsfeet
10. Dust Contamination	Dirt in Finish
11. Edge Mapping	Edge Ringing, Featheredge Lifting
12. Fisheyes	Silicon Contamination, Cratering
13. Lifting	Shriveling, Swelling, Raising, Alligatoring, Wrinkling
14. Loss of Gloss	Hazing Dulling, Dieback, Matting, Weathering
15. Mottling	Streaking, Tiger/Zebra Stripes, Floating, Flooding
16. Orange Peel	Poor Flow, Texture
17. Peeling	Delamination, Flaking
18. Pinholing in Body Filler	Bubbles, Air Pockets
19. Rail	Dust
20. Runs/Sags	Hangers, Curtains, Signatures
21. Sanding Marks	Streaked Finish, Sandscratches
22. Sandscratches	Swelling, Sinking, Shrinkage
23. Seediness	Gritty, Dirty, Grainy, Speckled
24. Shrinkage	Bulleyes, Ringing, Edge Mapping
25. Soft Film	Slow Dry
26. Solvent Popping	Boiling, Blowing, Gassing
27. Staining/Plastic	Bleed Through Discoloration
28. Tape Tracking	Tracks
29. Transparency	Poor Hiding, Poor Coverage,Translucent
30. Water Spotting	Water Marking
31. Wrinkling	Crinkling, Puckering, Shriveling